Once in a while salting is not about harmony. Instead it’s about a gentle but jangling discord.Haleakala Ruby is a luscious, warm Hawaiian sea salt that takes its color from the Haleakala volcano’s sacred alaea clay. This is a salt that excels on fish and pork, where it seeks out and then embellishes the opulent undercurrents of flavors lurking in these subtler foods. But it’s also good on fruit. The salt shifts unexpectedly from meadows of sunny butter to coral reefs of revitalizing brine. The less acidic the fruit, the more pronounced the oceanic freshness, as if the salt knows precisely how to respond to the needs of the food. Start with a cantaloupe sweet as honeysuckle, trickle a little balsamic acidity for added complexity, stir in a pinch of fleur de sel to bring the flavors into crystal clarity, then serve with a sprinkle of Haleakala Ruby… This is what it tastes like to have your heart skip a beat.