A crispy tangy spicy red snapper: flavors singing in exotic Southeast Asian voices. Restless nights preceded this recipe. There was hand wringing. Soul searching. The dilemma of which salt. Bali Rama, with its arrowhead tips of explosive freshness, was the seductive choice, a magnificent sea salt that seems never to steer me wrong. Maldon sea salt would have been a convenient and more predictable choice, salt’s gold standard of unflappable, balanced crispness. But the snapper wanted something more, something both melodic and taunting, like the sound of seashells raked by summer waves across a tropical reef. The choice of salts became clear: Bitterman's Flake with its huge pyramidal crystals that seem nearly to tremble with oceanic vitality, a sea salt with the mathematical exactitude of music.