Humble salt is enjoying something of a renaissance, with gourmets singing the praises of artisanal salt. Mark Bitterman has become an expert on the seasoning; he owns a store called The Meadow, in Portland, OR, where they offer 85 varieties of sea salt, which include those with mild to intense salinity, with a touch of sweetness and with hints of unexpected flavors (like truffles). For your wedding meal, Bitterman suggests featuring a trio of salts - a delicate fleur de sel, a snappy flake sea salt and a smoked sea salt - at each table. Use a tented card to introduce guests to the flavors and ideal uses of each, and encourage experimentation. At the end of the night, offer guests the chance to practice their new salt knowledge at home by giving small jars of crystals as favors.

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