I went to The Meadow in search of the perfect salt for eggs. A clerk handed me a black salt from India called kala namak. I opened the jar and inhaled a whiff of sulfur. I bought it on faith, used it on scrambled eggs the next day, and retired my regular salt shaker, overcome by the urge to sprinkle kala namak on everything. Tofu? Check. Vegetables — yes, especially sauteed padron peppers, which seem to have been made for it. In India, kala namak is used in fruit chaat, a fruit salad sold on street corners. Salt is an inexpensive indulgence — at least kala namak is. Buy a small bottle and see what foods you can subtly transform.

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